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El Salvador: Between Memory and Reinvention– A Nation Once Shaped by Violence, Reinventing Itself

During a two-week visit to El Salvador, the smallest nation in Central America and commonly referred to as the “Land of Volcanoes,” I witnessed a remarkable transformation.  The city of San Salvador, once labeled as one of the most dangerous in the world, has been experiencing a renaissance that has transformed its historic center while improving the quality of life and safety for its residents. However, beneath the surface of safety and renewal lies a complex reality shaped by civil war, genocide, gang violence, and now a controversial state-led crackdown. The country’s charismatic president has restored order while raising urgent concerns about democracy and human rights. Nevertheless, it remains a beautiful country known for its historic architecture, vibrant street markets, rainforests, Mayan temples, volcanic hiking, and surfing beaches. Let me also add its popular Pupusa, a culinary dish of thick corn or rice tortillas stuffed with cheese, beans, and meat. A place of quiet contradictions, where the tension between beauty, control, recovery, and history is quite revealing.  Here is what I learned and wish to share…..

Power, History, and Everyday Life in Guatemala’s Cultural Heart

I spent an entire month in Guatemala, a place of preserved beauty and modern living, known for its mountainous landscapes and vibrant indigenous Maya culture.  Honestly, I would have loved to spend more time here, and am hopeful I will return.  A country with a bit of everything— coastlines, a volcanic mountain range with 30+ volcanoes, rainforests and well-preserved colonial towns and villages steeped in tradition. The city of Antigua, hands down, is probably one of the most beautiful colonial cities in the world. This ancient city, surrounded by volcanoes, experienced significant earthquake destruction. This destruction led to the preservation of some of its most beautiful ruins, declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like most Latin American countries, Guatemala also experienced a long history of armed conflict—36 years of it—one of the longest and deadliest conflicts in Latin American history ending in 1996 with over 200,000 people (mostly Mayan communities) killed or disappeared by government forces (with help from the CIA).  This story is part one of a two-part series about what makes this place a ​”must​” to learn about and visit…

Rio de Janeiro: Between Splendor, Struggle, Carnival, Beauty, and the Shadows of Decline

I stayed in Rio de Janeiro for a month, arriving a couple of weeks before Carnival. One of the most visited cities in the world, with some of the most beautiful mountainous coastal landscapes. The iconic Sugarloaf Mountain, the Tijuca Urban Rainforest (one of the largest in the world) and Christ the Redeemer are purely breathtaking and staggering. Rio de Janeiro is a city where extraordinary natural beauty and persistent inequality coexist, revealing a city that dazzles the eye while exposing the deep historical roots of Brazil’s colonial past. A country with a long history of emperors and dictators, yet chosen to remain a democratic society.  A haven for so many rural migrants, which has led to the city experiencing significant decline. A city with close to 1000 favelas (slums), known as the birthplace of samba. You are perplexed and dumbfounded to witness the decline of the city’s historic downtown center. Imagine the contrast between a slowly decaying city center next to wealthy beachfront neighborhoods surrounded by hillside favelas. Yet, the country has managed to lower its poverty rate.   This story is about how I experienced this complex city beyond what you see on a postcard….

Traveling With Purpose in Rio de Janeiro: A Journey That Changes Lives

During my month’s travel to Brazil, I came across a volunteer-driven education program in Rio de Janeiro that invites travelers, retirees, and young professionals to share their skills in discovering a deeper way to see the world. For fifty years, a family-run program originally from Italy has supported children living beside a favela (slum) providing a holistic educational program that offers tutoring, arts, meditation, and language education, transforming the lives of children. During my travels over the past several years, I have increasingly come to see travel as more than movement between places. In Kenya, I volunteered at a small rural school and continue to support their efforts today. Experiences like this remind me that travel can be an exchange—not just of culture and stories, but of care and commitment that allows travelers to become part of a community while helping a child build a brighter future.  Can you spare a bit more time to read about this unique program in hopes that you or others may want to consider visiting….

Art Basel 2024….  An immersion of the Art World and all its excesses

Art Basel, also known as Miami Art Week offers a combination of art fairs, museum exhibitions, satellite art programs, public art and murals seen through its many neighborhoods and commercial districts. There are over a dozen art fairs and it’s almost impossible to see them all. During this first week of December, the Art World in Miami is showcasing every form of art …. exhibitions, installations, performances, panel discussions and workshops representing every demographic and special interest group with plenty of parties, receptions and meetups.   There was something here for everyone…..

 Cairo Unveiled: A 10-Day Exploration of History, Culture, and Urban Life

In Cairo, Egypt for 10 days to experience ancient Egyptian civilization, from its mysterious pyramids, towering monuments, mummies, and tombs to its cuisine, artistry and way of life. Where else can you witness the Great Sphinx or visit a country once run by a powerful woman, Queen Cleopatra, 30 BCE? Cairo is the second largest city in Africa, the bustling capital of Egypt, a city rich in history and culture on the banks of the Nile River (the longest river in the world). Cairo, known as “Al-Qahira” in Arabic, is the largest city in the Arab world. It is also a city undergoing drastic changes. Here is my take on Egypt and what to explore when visiting…….

 Dubai Desert Dreams: A City of the Future and What It Means

From London, headed to Dubai for a week’s stay to explore what has been the miraculous building of a futuristic city. Once a fishing town with less than 1200 people surrounded by a vast desert, today Dubai’s population has grown to 3 million+ representing over 200 nationalities. This is a duo language city – English and Arabic are equally used as tourism and commerce remains its new economy (no longer oil). A city much like Las Vega built in a desert with a vision of being an economic force formed during very different times with distinct agendas. One more futuristic than the other. The contrast between thousands of glass tower buildings and what is traditionally an Arab lifestyle is both dazzling as it is contrary. Here is my take on Dubai and what to explore when visiting…….

Reflections on the 60th Venice Biennale: Art at the Edge of Imagination

During my stay in Italy, I became aware that the Venice Biennale was being held this year (2024) beginning April. I quickly made plans to visit the city since the next one isn’t until 2026. Every even year, Venice becomes a renowned player within the global art scene hosting the Venice Biennale. For a small city surrounded by water, this is a huge feat to undertake every two years …. becoming the “world’s pre-eminent stage for new contemporary art.” This year, its 60th International Art Exhibition’s theme and title is “Stranieri Ovunque—Foreigners Everywhere.” What better theme or topic to request of artists throughout the world for their interpretations? For art lovers who haven’t planned any travel yet, there is still time to catch this universal exhibition ending by November 1st. Here is what I learned…

Timeless Venice: 25 Days of Art, Culture, and History

Venice, known as “the floating city” is built on more than 100 small islands based on an intricate system of canals and waterways created by humans, unlike any in the world. A historic city known for its picturesque architecture, its Carnevale masks and traditions, its marbled palaces, Murano glass masters, and let me not forget, its romantic gondolas.  An immensely beautiful and timeless city confronted with its own ecological problems as the sea level continue to rise and over-tourism affects its authenticity and preservation. I spent 25 days exploring Venice, learning about its past, present and future. Here is what I experienced….

Parallel Paths: 30 Days in London: Reflections of New York

London is the epitome of regal opulence, starting with the Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, the Changing of the Guard and countless royal palaces and monuments. There are also the iconic black cabs, the London Eye for the best views of the city and those red telephone booths that still work and tourists love to take selfies in. But for me, what was most striking was the similarities to New York City. Maybe I am feeling a bit home sick but London made me feel at home….