Timeless Venice: 25 Days of Art, Culture, and History
Venice, known as “the floating city” is built on more than 100 small islands based on an intricate system of canals and waterways created by humans, unlike any in the world. A historic city known for its picturesque architecture, its Carnevale masks and traditions, its marbled palaces, Murano glass masters, and let me not forget, its romantic gondolas. An immensely beautiful and timeless city confronted with its own ecological problems as the sea level continues to rise and over-tourism affects its authenticity and preservation. I spent 25 days exploring Venice, learning about its past, present and future. Here is what I experienced….
But First a Bit of History….
One wonders how it is possible for humans to build a city on a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea without using any kind of machinery, simply by driving wooden poles deep into the clay beneath the waters. Over time, mother nature completed the job turning wood poles into stone, allowing this city to exist and expand for more than a 1000 years. Today, it has become an “intricate network of 116 islands, 177 canals and 423 bridges”. Only by being in its presence can you truly appreciate what an engineering phenomenon this is. What started as a city by refugees escaping ongoing invasions and war conflicts gradually became a powerhouse. The city grew to become a maritime empire, a major center of trade, capable of fighting its own wars. Over time, with the discovery of America, Venice lost much of its trade presence, eventually becoming part of Italy before World War II.
Arriving in Venice
About a week before I left Florence, my sciatica was starting to kick in on my right leg along with what has been a consistent growing backache that was slowing me down. Having caught Covid earlier, I had not fully recovered and just wasn’t feeling all that well. In addition, I was still only hearing about 25% in my left ear. As soon as I got to Venice, I immediately arranged to see another doctor. The doctor came to my apartment (Yup, can you believe it — A house call) and provided me with another antibiotic for an infection, cough medicine and a stronger ear wax remover than previously prescribed. After a week I was feeling much better, although my hearing was still the same as was my achy back. I decided when I arrive in London, I would see an ENT specialist, and consult with an orthopaedic spine clinic for my back. I managed my back pain during my stay in Venice by slowing down, pacing myself by drinking wine, eating pasta, gelatos, cannolis and Cicchettis. By the time I left Venice I easily added five additional pounds to my body weight.
To get to Venice, I booked a two-hour train ride from Florence. Once in Venice, you are stunned by the city’s striking architecture, its winding canals, and romantic bridges. A city surrounded by water with no cars, just boats and ferries to get around. I secured a porter service to help carry my luggage as the ferries were shut down due to a boating event. It took us about 25 minutes to arrive at the apartment located in the Cannaregio neighborhood, formerly known as the Jewish ghetto, created in 1516. (Jews were viewed as a threat to Christianity and thus segregated). My apartment was a 15-minute walk to the main tourist strip and about 40 minutes to the St. Mark’s Square. I found the area to be quaint and charming and not overly crowded with tourists (like me).
Having arrived on May 19th, not quite the summer months, you are unable to escape the crowds of tourists everywhere you go. If you want to avoid the crowds, you may need to visit early spring or late fall. Venice is one of a dozen cities that are severely impacted by over tourism. The high cost of living is pushing long life residents out of Venice. The resident population has dropped significantly as boutique hotels and airbnbs gradually take over. Commerce that primarily caters to tourists is what you mostly see in the main business corridors, and it is massive. I must say I did not experience my venetian neighbors to be as friendly. I don’t blame them. One can easily see how the city is in danger of losing its authenticity and community spirit by becoming mostly a tourist city.
Venice is also sinking and is already vulnerable to floods. This will only worsen as the sea level continues to rise. Add the amount of trash that is generated by tourism and you can see how the city will need to take some forceful actions to reduce its tourism. Presently, the city has started the enforcement of a city tax for visitors at 5 Euros which is expected to go up significantly in the coming years. Whether that will be enough is yet to be seen.
What Do To In Venice
First thing is to learn how to use the ferry which gets you across the city quickly and to other islands. The ferry also offers some of the best views of how the city is laid out. Pay for a map and study it closely so that you don’t waste time finding your way around the streets and alleys. They can be very confusing as their names are not always consistent. If you plan to be here during the Biennale, purchase the “My Art Guide” to help you locate the pavilions and other art venues. Below I listed what I enjoyed the most.
Venice Biennale
Every two years, (even years) Venice becomes a renowned player in the global art scene hosting the Venice Biennale. For a small city surrounded by water, this is a huge feat to undertake every two years …. becoming the “world’s pre-eminent stage for new contemporary art”.
This year, its 60th International Art Exhibition’s theme and title is “Stranieri Ovunque—Foreigners Everywhere.” Unlike many other international art fairs, Venice’s exhibitions remain open to the public from April through November 1st. Over 80 pavilions from every country are spread throughout Venice, interpreting this year’s theme. Besides visiting the Arsenale and Giardini where the largest exhibitions are housed, in total I probably got to view about 30-40 pavilions — it was a bit exhausting. My review of the show will be in next month’s newsletter. For art lovers, this would be a good time to visit Venice or wait until 2026. Whenever, be aware this is an expensive city to visit.
Walking and Photographing the City
Exploring the city’s many alleyways, bridges and piazzas without worrying about getting lost is probably one of the most enjoyable activities one can do. (Google map will get you back home). The narrow alleys that lead sometimes into court yards or to charming bridges and canals can be both mysterious and magical. The city’s preservation of its buildings and infrastructure is quite impressive. So much history to familiarize yourself, starting with its iconic Venetian Gothic architecture, its monuments, churches and museums. The canals and bridges are remarkably well-kept and offer a one of kind landscape. Whether you are on a gondola, a ferry, or just walking, the city is a magnet for photo-taking.
Museums and Historic Sites
I purchased a monthly pass for entrance into 11 museums and a dozen churches (churches here charge an admission fee). I managed to attend all the museums except for two and a few of the churches (of less interest to me). The museums were mostly of the city’s history, presenting the lifestyles of the rich from furnishings to dinnerware, art, clothing and much more. You are able to grasp what that time period was like (at times a bit decadent) with very little on how the other side lived. What mostly stayed with me was how in the 15th-16th centuries Europeans created such beautiful things primarily using their hands as compared to today where everything is done with the help of a machine or a computer.
Recognizing that most folks may not choose to purchase a pass depending on how long they stay, I listed below those museums and sites I believe are worth a visit.
Palazzo (Palace) Ducale– gorgeous and extravagant
Palazzo Mocenigo— beautiful furnishings, costumes, and the making of perfume.
Museo Correr—-significant art collection up to the 1800s
Ca’ Pasero of Modern Art—good collection of European modern art
Ca’Rezzonico—well-known masterpieces including furnishings
I also attended the Peggy Guggenheim Museum which surprisingly had an impressive collection of modern art from both Europe and America renowned artists.
Visiting the Islands of Murano and Burano
Jumping on a ferry to go to both islands is a great day trip and you don’t need a tour guide. Murano island is known for its glass making and much like Venice, it is quite picturesque with its ancient buildings, bridges, canals and alleyways. I visited the Glass Museum, attended a glass blowing demonstration, had a wonderful lunch and got to see amazing Murano glass works of arts of which none I purchased.
Burano island is a quick ferry ride from Murano to what is a smaller island with the most colorful homes I have seen in all of Italy. It is known for its lacemaking needlepoint history, dating back to the 16th century exported throughout Europe. Today it remains a fishing town with a growing tourist presence. There is a lace museum for those who are interested in learning more about its past. There is plenty of retail that sells lace items made in Italy, although they are most likely machine made. Much like Venice, both these islands do not have cars or require them…. worthy of a visit.
One Last Thing on Venice and Italy
My three-month journey to Italy ends with Venice until next year. Other than getting sick with Covid, I feel fortunate to have experienced so much of this country is such a short period. I plan to write one more story summarizing the trip and delving in a bit on differences between our countries…both good and bad. Venice was indeed a photographer’s dream location. Way too many photos to choose from that depict the city’s ancient architecture, its romantic canals and bridges, its gondolas, and its people including the tourists (these foreigners are everywhere). As always, click the center of the photo for a full view of each photograph.
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