The phrase “When in Rome, Do as the Romans Do” goes back as far as the late 1500s, referencing the importance of adapting yourself to the customs of people and places you visit when they are entirely different from what you experience back home.  Quite easy to do when it comes to eating enticing dishes of pasta, drinking Roman wine, and adjusting to the siesta hours. Frankly, two weeks in the city of Rome does not allow one to learn and adapt to all their customs but is worth trying. Rome is the first stop of my embarking on a three-month journey across Italy. Here is what I was able to do during my stay in Rome with the hope of returning again….

But First a Bit of History

 I always make it a habit when I travel to dig into understanding the history of countries and how it shapes their future.   Ancient Rome was once a small village that rose to dominate the Mediterranean world. Its history is full of wars, invasions, and power struggles among emperors and popes, family members and lovers. Too many to count and all of it leading to the collapse of what was considered one of the greatest political and military civilizations in all of history.  Something for us to ponder as we witness our own civilization slowly decline. Just as important was the unification of all of Italy which did not happen until 1861 again due to wars, invasions, and power struggles. By 1946, the monarchy was abolished, leading to the rise and fall of Mussolini’s fascism during World War II. To fully understand Italy’s history and the role that the Roman empire played along with the rise of Christianity, you may need to take a course. However, if you are planning to visit this country and would like to do a bit of homework, here is a link to GoodReads recommended list of books on Italy’s history.

Today, Italy is one of the most advanced nations with an enviable quality of life compared to most countries and a leader in world trade and exports. It is also recognized as one of the most sought-after arts and cultural countries in the world.

 Getting To and Around Rome

I changed my travels from Tuscany to the city of Rome to leave two weeks earlier than I planned before meeting up with friends in Arezzo, Tuscany. I was struggling for over 6 weeks with a nagging cough from allergies bought on by the volcano ashes from El Popo and possibly other air pollutants duirng my stay in Mexico.

I decided to stay in two different hotels, one in the neighborhood of Ostiense near the Metro station and the other one in the historic district. Both hotel locations offered me two distinct opportunities to immerse myself in understanding Roman culture. Ostiense was once an industrial community, now mostly multifamily residences, a bit worn, yet full of cafés, restaurants, and other eateries that come alive at night. Many businesses here, especially restaurants, do not open til after 4 and many do not serve dinner until 8pm. It is definitely a trendy area with a lively food scene and a vibrant cultural life. The metro is quite easy to jump on, and in less than 10-20 minutes you are at most destinations. No need to take a cab or Uber, neither is cheap. I enjoyed walking the neighborhood, observing the locals, going to the Eataly Marketplace for Italian-made foodies, and eating at many of their cafes. I was a bit surprised of how much graffiti there was on the buildings in several of the neighborhoods. The graffiti, which in this case is mostly name tagging is everywhere in Rome. Curious to know what the city is doing to minimize or eliminate it.

The second week my hotel was in walking distance to all the ruins, fountains, and historical monuments, which offered a different vibe and experience. There was still a chill in the morning, but by the afternoon it was perfect walking weather. The streets and walkways were packed with tourists since it was spring break, coupled with the Easter holiday.  Unlike the  local neighborhoods, most dining places were open by noon and late into the night. There are pizzeria and gelato places on almost every block. I found the jewelry, clothes, and leather goods to be both impressive and affordable compared to the US. I was very  tempted to buy a whole new wardrobe and dispense with my overly washed garments. Right now, my weight has been climbing up, and I did not want to leave Rome depressed.

What to do in Rome? (seems like a rhetorical question)

Rome is known as the “eternal city” for its timeless architecture, ancient ruins, and the Vatican City. It is also the ancient city of love and there were certainly many couples expressing their affection for each other. Two weeks seem like a lot of time, but it runs out quickly as you also need to pace yourself. One of the first things I did was ask the hotel staff what events are happening during the next two weeks. The city annual marathon happened to be the next day. I managed to get to the Piazza Novena and the Piazza di Spagna to catch most of the participants running during the last leg of the race in time to also see some hunky gladiators racing among the many who were dressed up. This was my first time walking in this ancient city of such well-preserved buildings of a glorious past surrounded by beautiful flowing fountains and famous ruins. The Romans were geniuses at engineering, much like the Aztecs were in astronomy. The preservation of scores of buildings throughout Rome and in parts of Italy is astonishing with many having survived countless wars as well as earthquakes. I was both surprised and pleased over the breadth and depth of the ruins, much more than what I experienced in Athens. Kudos to Rome for it strong position on the preservation of its past and limiting the modernization of buildings.

Besides all the walking, eating, and drinking, I managed to attend the following tours:

The Pantheon—I paid for a guided tour, ditch the tour. Just get in line for a ticket. The entire place can be seen in 30 minutes. No need to pay for a guided tour who in my case I could not understand her English.

The Roman Forum and the Colosseum— Now this was worth paying for a guided tour (although expensive). This three-hour tour was quite remarkable. In fact, if I visit Rome again, I will consider doing this tour as there was too much to see, learn, and absorb.  Once you have entered the Colosseum, it is both massive and majestic. For sure, my photos could not absorb its magnificence.

The Vatican City— I also paid for a tour and was pleased with the results as this place is so huge. Frankly, to understand the history of what you are seeing requires a guide. However, there were plenty of folks who did not have a guided tour and that is certainly an option. The Vatican Museum collection was quite interesting and, if not tired, I would have revisited once our tour guide was done. I am not a believer of organized religion led by men. The history of Christianity is so appalling it was hard for me to  fully appreciate the grandeur of the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel, the Basilica of St Peter, and its piazza. The presence of absolute power by a few was a bit underwhelming for me and I quickly lost interest.

Pompei and Positano at the Amalfi Coast— This was an all-day tour that I thought was worth investing the time and money. The burial of the city of Pompei caused by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, “a city frozen in time” has always fascinated me. This is a reasonably large archaeological site. You are actually walking through a city to appreciate how people lived. It would have been nice if had not been drizzling and pouring mostly all day. Although, it did not stop the tour guide and our group from making the best of it. I got me a poncho to get me through most of it, although adding an umbrella would have helped.

As a community development practitioner, I was inspired by the planning and engineering of the city. The commercial corridor, the main square, its streetscapes, water wells, pipelines, brothels, and Roman baths remain intact. One can see how film directors can gain sufficient insights from studying ancient ruins to produce movies from that period. My only disappointment was to not be able to see the artifacts. They can be viewed at the museum in Naples which was not part of the itinerary. Hope to get there some day.

From here, we then drove about 40 minutes to the Amalfi Coast to the city of Positano. What could I say that has not already been said and written about this coast? The views are spectacular even as you are riding on what is a very narrow road. I can’t imagine how tough getting on and off this road must be like in the summer months. The city of Positano is a colorful village with plenty of food and shopping choices. This visit was useful in considering a more extended stay. It finally stopped raining, allowing us to enjoy the place before the long haul back to Rome.

Leaving Rome

Before leaving Rome, I made it to a spa to both relax my achy back and celebrate my 71^st birthday. As always, I want to continue to share my nomadic experience and mental well-being as I travel from city to city. My coughing after the first week improved dramatically although I can’t say it is 100% gone.  Unfortunately, the flight was a disaster as I cough throughout the night limiting everybody’s ability to  sleep including myself.   For now, I will continue to monitor it and may see a doctor that can speak English. I must say, not knowing the language is frustrating and inhibits you from engaging as much as you like. At times, I can use Spanish as a back-up, but it does not always work. It did not keep me from using public transportation to get around the city which is less confusing than the New York City’s subway.

This time I chose not to stay in an apartment but instead in two different boutique hotels.  Not only was I able to better navigate the city but I also avoided being in the same room for two weeks since hotel rooms in European cities tend to be small. Overall, I thought this worked well with no regrets although it is not my preferred choice. I try to pace myself to avoid feeling run down, to better manage my back pain and to keep up with projects. Besides getting the blog out, I’ve been too distracted to do anything else. I expect that may be the case when I am in Tuscany to celebrate a week of wine tasting and dining with old and new friends. I am also looking forward to having long conversations in English when I get there and to connect with people who know me, which I miss.

My photos are of what makes this city so alluring…its architecture, ancient ruins, and the daily living of its people. There are photos of most of the tour sites mentioned in this story including my trip to both Pompei and Positano.  As always, click the center of the photo for a full view of each photograph.

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