The Last Stop: A Year of Travel Ends in Kenya
The final 18 days of my yearlong travel were spent in Kenya before heading home. If you were to ask me was this part of my original travel plans, I would have to say “not exactly” with no regrets. Kenya is known for its scenic landscapes, a diversity of indigenous tribes, and its vast wildlife preserves. In fact, Nairobi is the safari capital of the world with its own national wildlife park within its borders. Staying in Nairobi allowed me to partake in a safari adventure, volunteer at a private school in a rural community and explore the city. Here are reflections of the final days of my yearlong travel and of Kenya…
But First a Bit of History
Kenya was a colony of the United Kingdom from 1920 until 1963 when it gained its independence, becoming a republic, consisting of a president, a national assembly, and a judiciary. For centuries, its location next to the Indian Ocean has afforded goods from Arabian and Asian traders to enter the continent building on its economy. Slavery is also a big part of the country’s history, where many Africans were captured and exported to other countries throughout the world. A country with its fair share of conflicts brought on by political and climate change.
Today, Kenya is a country of many indigenous groups with 27 national parks and reserves. It has a population of over 55 million. Its capital, Nairobi, is a modern and bustling city with over 5 million residents. The city is undergoing rapid urbanization, becoming more densely populated which has led to higher unemployment among many other challenges facing both the capital and the country.
Arriving in Nairobi, Kenya
I left Cape Town, South Africa, and arrive in Nairobi to first experience, a 7-day safari visiting four of Kenya’s national parks. Truly one of the most important highlights of my yearlong travels. If a safari is on your bucket list, click here to read The Rhythm of The Wild: Seven Days on Safari in Kenya and learn what that experience was. It will inspire you to travel and help you plan for one.
After a year of traveling three continents, visiting eight countries, sixteen cities and two dozen small towns and neighborhoods, I was reaching a point of exhaustion and was pushing myself hard to get thru these last 18 days. Adjusting daily to all that is foreign had me yearning for what was familiar to me. Places like the local coffee shop, grocery store, gas station and the streets you are accustomed to walking. The uncertainty of what is going to happen day by day, and the packing, unpacking and packing again can drive you crazy. Just 18 more days to explore, endure and finally get home. Health-wise, my back pain was manageable although my stomach was not. I was experiencing a bit of acid reflux and abdominal pain which required me to lay off the wine and spicy meals. Some of this, I believe is anxiety-related brought on by the stress of constantly being on the move.
Plans for My Stay in Nairobi
Once I arrived in Nairobi, plans were for the next day to begin the safari which entailed staying in four different lodges visiting four reservation parks throughout Kenya. Once I returned to Nairobi, I spent two nights at a hotel relaxing and doing nothing before heading out to catch a flight to Kisumu. From there I was driven to the small town of Kiisi to visit a private primary school founded by a dear colleague. There I spent three days learning about the school’s many programs and to volunteer my services. Definitely, one of the most inspirational and somber experiences ever. Click here to read Voices from the Classroom: A Kenyan Story on Making a Difference, my story about this miracle school.
After returning from Kiisi, I had six remaining days before heading home. I signed up for an apartment instead of a hotel to allow me both the space and the flexibility of moving around and cooking my meals. At this point, I was not planning to do much sightseeing, as I also needed to find time to complete the September newsletter before leaving the country.
Frankly, I did not find the city of Nairobi to be as interesting as other places I visited. The city is densely populated, a modern urban jungle of sort. Many of the streets are crowded with apartment buildings. There has been and continues to be considerable construction. In fact, you can purchase a brand-new studio apartment for $50,000. The traffic is highly congested, overcome by motorcycles riders that are not as disciplined, regularly causing accidents. The streets are full of vendors selling just about anything. Many selling out of the back of the trunks of their cars, some on the sidewalks, other using makeshift stalls with umbrellas to keep the sun out. Also, there are malls everywhere as prices for goods are reasonable for foreigners due in part to the currency exchange. This is also a city with many challenges with one of the largest informal settlements (slums) in the country. There are shortages of jobs, housing, water, and health services that have led to higher rates of crime. Definitely a place to not let your guard down when visiting. Yet, I found it to be easier to navigate than the city of Cairo.
What To Do in Nairobi
If you are in Kenya for a safari adventure, you may want to extend your stay in the city for a couple of days to experience the city’s historical sites. The city has many museums that one can attend. I chose not to attend them to allow me the time to focus on historical sites since I had less time for sightseeing. Here is what I managed to do during my stay.
Visiting a Maasai Tribe Village
Upon completing my safari adventure, I asked my tour guide if we could visit a Maasai Tribe Village to learn about the lifestyle and culture of one of the country’s most indigenous communities. This was well worth the time invested in experiencing first-hand how this tribe has continued to both survive and thrive without sacrificing their traditions and lifestyle. Click here to read my story: The Heartbeat of The Maasai People: A Story of Endurance.
The Bombas of Kenya
This is a tourist attraction about the traditional villages and dances of Kenya’s many tribes. The Bombas tour consists of visiting the homesteads of a dozen villages similar to an outside museum. Some of these huts are still common in many parts of Kenya with some upgrades in the materials used. It is hard to imagine families living in such small quarters with no electricity or water. In fact, during my visit to both Kiisi and the Maasai Village, I experienced families using these huts. Part of this tour includes a musical and dance performance from at least five tribes. All of it is both educational and entertaining.
The Karen Blixen Museum
I loved the Out of Africa film and very much wanted to visit Karen Blixen’s house. What was once a coffee plantation has been scaled down to a museum surrounded by an upscale neighborhood. The house is quite charming with many historical items. There were photos of Karen, her husband and lover (portrayed in the film by Robert Redford), both were handsome men. Coffee from Brazil was brought to Kenya by the British during its colonization and became the main crop harvested by Karen Blixen.
Zazuri Bead Factory
Not too far from the Karen Blixen Museum, once part of the coffee plantation is a unique occupational workshop for training single heads of household, mostly women. The bead factory offers a tour of the premises where you can see a live demonstration of how beads are made from start to finish. Beware the beads are quite beautiful and hard to resist not buying them when visiting the store.
Nairobi Safari National Park
The city is adjacent to what is a protected ecosystem of wildlife. The contrast of being in a safari with skyscrapers and a rail line as a backdrop was a surprising visual. During my safari venture, I did not get to photograph black and white rhinos and so I again asked my tour guide if he could arrange for a day trip to the park before my leaving Nairobi. We also visited the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, where young, orphaned elephants are rescued to later be released into the park. I was able to see quite a bit of young elephants whose parents, in most cases, had been poached, including a baby rhino. On the premises there is also the Giraffe Center, although we skipped it to go directly into the park. At the park, I was able to observe a family of rhinos besides many other wildlife creatures. A great way to end my 18 days in Kenya and my yearlong travel.
Final Note
On my long haul back to New Jersey after a year of traveling as a solo traveler, I was both grateful and blessed to get back home safely. A bit battle weary with my share of aches and pains. Planning a year’s trip, where many times, one will need to address challenges on the road is exhausting. It is why slow travel, where you can stay put for a least a month, is very helpful to both the body and the mind, especially as you age.
The learnings are incalculable in helping plan my second year as a 70 year old nomad. For now, I am taking a break from the road to take care of personal and health care needs, visit family and connect with friends.
Lastly, my photos are a representation of Kenya and the city of Nairobi’s landscape, wildlife, and daily living. If you like to view more photos, click the stories noted above. As always, click the center of the photo to fully view each photograph.
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