I stayed in Rio de Janeiro for a month, arriving a couple of weeks before Carnival. One of the most visited cities in the world, with some of the most beautiful mountainous coastal landscapes. The iconic Sugarloaf Mountain, the Tijuca Urban Rainforest (one of the largest in the world) and Christ the Redeemer are purely breathtaking and staggering. Rio de Janeiro is a city where extraordinary natural beauty and persistent inequality coexist, revealing a city that dazzles the eye while exposing the deep historical roots of Brazil’s colonial past. A country with a long history of emperors and dictators, yet chosen to remain a democratic society.  A haven for so many rural migrants, which has led to the city experiencing significant decline. A city with close to 1000 favelas (slums), known as the birthplace of samba. You are perplexed and dumbfounded to witness the decline of the city’s historic downtown center. Imagine the contrast between a slowly decaying city center next to wealthy beachfront neighborhoods surrounded by hillside favelas. Yet, the country has managed to lower its poverty rate.   This story is about how I experienced this complex city beyond what you see on a postcard….