I knew during my stay in Merida, Mexico, I would tour the pyramids of Chichén Itzá as I failed to do so last year when I first visited this city. By chance, I was not aware when I booked the tour for Saturday, October 14th, 2023 that there would be a solar eclipse over the Yucatan Peninsula. A one-time Mayan experience that only happens every 40 years. Although there is not much of an astronomy bone in me, I was thrilled to partake in this mystical experience. Could it be that I was meant to be there? Who knows! Here is how the day went….

But First a Bit of History

The Mayans were a civilization to reckon with and it’s sad much of their ancient history has been destroyed by the Spaniards. Besides building cities throughout the Yucatan Peninsula, they created their own mathematical system beginning with zero and developed calendars and writing systems. One of their most important achievements was their ability to accurately predict solar/moon eclipses with no instruments (Yup, just the naked-eye and some math). Based on their religious beliefs, the Mayans associated these eclipses with adverse events that would affect them both individually and as a community. According to the Yucatec Mayan language, the eclipse is called “Chi’bal K’iin” which translates to “when the sun is eaten”. A conflict between the sun(male) and the moon(female) who are always in battle …. much like today’s relationships.

 Heading to Chichén Itzá but first a stop in Izamal

There were six of us on the tour, of which three specifically traveled to Merida to experience the Solar Eclipse (celestial tourism). We first stopped at a small colonial town near a pyramid known as Izamal, also once an ancient Mayan city destroyed by the Spaniards. The town is best known for its yellow-painted buildings and its convent once visited by the Pope. It is an underdeveloped town with not much to do. We were fortunate that during our time there, we got to witness a Mayan ritual honoring the Solar Eclipse. Back then, the Mayans performed rituals to appease the anger of the sun or moon gods in hope of a resolution. Even today, Mayans continue to perform religious rituals, offering prayers and blessings for a better world as they fight to maintain their religion, culture, and language in a rapidly changing society. Today’s Mayan rituals are about praying for a better Mexico and the world honoring and respecting the role the earth plays in their lives.

The Mayan priest was dressed in a traditional garment using candles, incense and other native materials laid on a piece of cloth framing four destination points (north, south, east, west). The prayer was conducted in the Mayan language combined with a beat of a small drum and the sound of the wind blown from a concha seashell. We were in the presence of about 200 persons, some wearing traditional clothing or costumes. Many were intensely engaged in the prayer, barely moving from their spot. I spoke with an elderly man who sat with me and shared how important it was to conduct these rituals and educate future generations in preserving their history and culture. This simple ceremony had a calming meditating effect. You felt special being there, experiencing a part of history completely unknown to you.

While there, we also visited the Kinich Kak Moo Pyramid, or what’s left of it, once a great Mayan city. Folks may climb to the top of the pyramid. I for one, know my limits and preferred to watch others take that leap. From there, we headed to Chichén Itzá when the eclipse was happening. The place was very crowded, as many thought this would be the perfect place to witness something that only happens every 40 years.

Chichén Itzá and the Solar Eclipse

Chichén Itzá besides being listed as one of the seven wonders of the world it is by far one of the greatest ancient cities… yup 1,000 years old. It represents two civilizations, the Mayan and the Toltec which over time their cultures merged with each other. There are about 8 historical sites with El Castillo being the most intact and beautiful. This temple in total has 365 steps similar to the days in the calendar and its location is aligned with the equinox (time when day and night are equal in length).  For preservation purposes, no one may climb El Castillo or any of the other sites (no chance). Each site offered artistic works embedded in the stones telling their story, much like the ancient cultures of Greece and Egypt. The similarities are just astonishing. The sites are all within walking distance although the sun and the heat can easily wear you out.

Besides the pyramid structures, there was an overwhelming number of artisan vendors selling all kinds of wares. A bit perplexed, I asked the tour guide how are they able to make sufficient income when they are so many competing with each other? I was informed that many of these vendors are part of an extended family network where they share their revenue so that everyone can feed their families. Pretty amazing!!! Our belief in the spirt of individualism would not make this a viable option in the US.

What about the Solar Eclipse?

The minute we set foot on these sacred grounds we immediately put on our paper sunscreen glasses to see this remarkable phenomenon. We got to see it early on and up to 3/4 covered by the moon as we walked the entire ancient city with little shade. We did not view the completion of the eclipse (known as the ring of fire) since you would need to be closer to the City of Campeche to witness the entire ring. But, no complaints here.

I did not think of bringing my camera filter as part of the many items I already had to pack. To catch photos of the eclipse, I improvised, by using the portion of the paper sunscreen over my camera lens to take some lousy shots. Better than going home empty-handed. Hampered by both distance and the right tools, there was no chance of replicating on digital this celestial spectacle among the ruins of this once mighty civilization. Thank God, it is ingrained in my memory bank, along with all the photos I am sharing. As we are getting ready to leave and I set my eyes one last time on the magnificence of these grounds and the wonderment of what life was like back a 1000 years ago, there is both a sadness and joy in finally getting here.

A bit exhausted and hungry, we headed out for a Yucatan meal and to jump into a Cenote — (sinkholes formed million years ago) for a swim and to cool off before heading back to Merida in what turn out to be a long wondrous and spiritual day.

So much gratitude for this experience. In fact, a bit serendipitous as the next total solar eclipse in Mexico will not be until 2063. By then, I will only be present in some spirit form.

One More Thing ….

 According to UNESCO, this remarkable archaeological site is experiencing ongoing decline caused by so many factors beginning with poor maintenance and attention, the lack of resources to support long-term prevention and over-tourism. However, one of the most damaging factors to archaeological sites all over the world is the impact of climate change, specifically natural disasters, erosion, and long-term degradation. Something to think about when visiting these unique places.

My photos follow the story.  Remember to click the center of the photo to experience a full view.

If you enjoyed this newsletter issue, help others discover it by sharing it with your friends. If you are not a subscriber for more stories and photos like these, please click here to subscribe!“