As I embark on my second year of travel, this time going south, my first stop is Cartagena, Colombia.  Here I remained for six weeks as I mapped out the first several months of my travels. Cartagena is both a port, and a historic walled and fortress city situated on the Caribbean coast at the northern tip of South America. The city reminds me so much of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico from its fortress to its people, cuisine, Spanish colonial architecture, music and customs. This is a multiracial, multiethnic society, a blend of European, African and indigenous communities. Quite picturesque with its tropical year-around weather and festive Latin culture. Here is what I learned about its history, culture and Caribbean spirit….

But First a Bit of History…

Before the Spaniards arrived in Columbia in the early 1500s, there were at least a dozen indigenous groups spread throughout the country. Most of them conquered, resettled, or destroyed. By the 16th century, the need for slave labor was essential for production and building the wall that led the city of Cartagena becoming the main port for the entry of slaves into the country. This led to decades of slave rebellions that eventually allowed for the abolition of slavery in 1851.

Eventually, the Republic of Columbia liberated itself from Spain only to have continuous conflicts among the government’s military, leftist guerilla groups, and right-wing forces with interference from the United States in its quest to fight communism (of course). Today, conflicts continue and are partly created by drug cartels. The country continues to be divided and in 2022 voters elected its first leftist president.

Arriving in Cartagena

Upon my return from Africa, I yearned for a break to catch up with friends and family and again to be in places that were “familiar” to me. I also had a long list of medical appointments to take care of before getting back on the road. The three-month break was intense and went by quickly. Plans were to travel by mid-December, leaving just before the temperature dropped below 20 degrees.  Early on, I decided if I liked the apartment, I would stay up to six weeks in Cartagena, Colombia. During my stay in the US, I changed locations 5 times (NJ, NYC, Philly, Miami, Philly) which wears on you. I really wanted to use my time in Cartagena to slow down and focus on my wellbeing and catch up on my neglected projects.

I continue to struggle with back pain and though I arranged to have an epidural injection before I left; the results were disappointing. No more injections for me. Instead, I have been focusing on an exercise program recommended by my doctor, which is helping a bit. Only time will tell if it will make a difference as I continue to explore other options.

My other goal during my stay in Cartagena was to drop some of the 15 pounds I gained during my yearlong travels. I have always managed my weight by using a calorie deficit plan. When you are traveling, you have no idea what’s in most of the food you eat. Buying groceries is no better as the metrics used outside of the US are in grams.  I decided I would switch to a low-carb diet plan which gave me more freedom to choose foods that were calorie dense.  So pleased to say that I have lost 10 lbs and am still working on the other 5.  It is not an easy plan to follow as I crave for many of the starches and sweets I love along with needing to push myself to exercise. I hope that once I get to my ideal weight, I can commit to the 80- 20 weight loss rule. I am soooo challenged… and a bit hungry!

Cartagena Through My Lens

 Let me start by again saying how much Cartagena reminded me of Old San Juan and its metropolitan area, although Cartagena is several times larger.  The historic center of Cartagena is practically surrounded by a seven mile-15th century walled fortress. You can walk a good portion of the wall but preferably when the sun begins to go down.  It is too hot to walk during the day, although some do. One can easily catch a sunset, accompanied by the coolest breeze overlooking both the ocean and the old city. Best part, it doesn’t cost you a cent.

When you enter the walled city through any of its open archways, you immediately experience what is a colorful, festive, vibrant colonial city that comes alive at about 3 PM when it’s not so damn hot. The weather here is both hot and humid and folks begin to pack the city’s plazas and streets during early evening into the night. Once the sun begins to gradually disappear, there is this amazing ocean breeze that sweeps through the city, cooling things down as it gets ready for another night of music, dining, and dancing. It is truly a festive city with a lively nightlife for both tourists and locals.

The historic city architecture is a step back to its colonial past. Much of the center has been restored, keeping its original architectural classicism designs using a variety of painted colors and native trees integrated within the exterior walls with ornate doors and decorative door-knockers. The streets are narrow, as are the sidewalks. There is much work that the city needs to do to improve its infrastructure, such as its crumbling streets and sidewalks, where one can easily trip. There are lots of retail businesses with beautiful artisan designs, including the selling of emeralds of which Colombia is known for globally. If you love emeralds, this is the place to buy one (although it may still set you back).

A traditional custom that caught my attention is the many colorful fruit carts that you see in the streets selling mostly fruits but also vegetables. Fruit is a big snack item in the city where folks can purchase a bag to take home or a cup of sliced mangos or oranges ready to eat.  These fruits carts are very much part of the city’s cultural landscape but they also represent a weakness in how people access foods that could be contaminated.

There are quite a number of solo/street vendors selling just about anything (including beer) to both locals and tourists. It is rare to walk the city and not be approached by several people selling novelties, water, hats; you name it. Most of the solo vendors are black or mulatto men of all ages (same for women).  Here is where you clearly see the inequities of a society who built its wealth on the enslavement of Africans and native communities.

I often speak about how street vending is the lowest form of small business and first-time employment for millions of families across the globe.  Many are hardworking men and women who are pounding the streets every day. Once they return to their home, there is the preparation of foods and crafts to re-start again.  In many cases, it is the only employment they can secure many times defined by the color of their skin.

Bear in mind, Cartagena is one of the poorest cities in the country, possibly more that 50% of its residents are living in poverty among surrounding neighborhoods that are not part of the tourist historic center.  Much like Mexico, Colombia is experiencing conflicts in many of its rural areas forcing people to move to urban centers or migrate to the US.  During my travels to the northern part of the Colombian coast, I witnessed a great deal of the country’s underdevelopment and poverty. While there has been significant economic growth in recent years, it has yet to trickle down. You need to have your guard up all the time and nicely walk away from those that approach you to ask for something.

Six Weeks of Discovering Cartagena

 My apartment faced the ocean and was a 10–15-minute walk to the historic center. I managed to go into town every other day, mostly after 2pm to avoid the sun. I did get sick from something I ate or drank that grounded me for almost a week, limiting by walks. During my walks, I was able to cover most of the city besides taking two tours that required leaving the city.  The following is what I did and loved.

Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour – I highly recommend taking this bus tour. The ticket includes two consecutive days.  The bus ride takes you through the historic center sites and the modern parts of Cartagena. The route includes the beaches of Boquilla, Bocagrande, Castillo Grande, El Laguito as well as hotels and retail shops (much like El Condado in San Juan).  You can get off and on at any of its 10 stops throughout the day, which includes the beaches, historic buildings and churches.

The San Felipe Castle Fortress is worthy of a visit as it has spectacular views of the city. The same goes for walking the fortress walls as the sun begins to set.

Cartagena Museum of Modern Art.   Cartagena does not have many museums to experience.  The Museum of Modern Art is actually in a colonial building. I was pleased with its permanent collection of 1950s impressionist works among South American artists.  If you don’t read the place cards, one would think these works came from Europe.

The Rafael Nunez Museum is just the exterior of the former governor’s home; skip it.

New Year’s Eve in Cartagena was quite the scene, especially for night owls.  The city is fully decorated with lighted sculptures throughout all its plazas and parks used by the crowds to take selfies with friends and family.  Some streets begin to close down by 6 PM, taken over by a restaurant on that same block where dining tables and a stage are set up for a long party night. The streets are full of vendors selling New Year’s Eve paraphernalia for adults and children as well as street food. Each hour the music gets louder and the crowds grow, many of them glammed up, ready to party and welcome the new year. Quite a spectacle…lively, vibrant and, for the most part, safe. By 10 PM, I was tired, and I called an Uber to take me home.

 The Getsemani Neighborhood

  This walkable neighborhood is situated not too far from the historic center was started back in the 1600s where mostly servants and free slaves lived to cater to the upper-class of the city. Over centuries, it became a refuge attracting many different immigrant groups. By the 70s it had become a slum, infested with crime, drugs and prostitution.  As the historic center prospered, the neighborhood became a target for gentrification brought on by both the community and real estate developers of hotels and commercial interest.  The once seedy neighborhood is now a colorful, vibrant, artistic enclave attracting many travelers for dining and entertainment.  It has a very bohemian, hipster vibe, a bit gritty yet festive and colorful with it painted homes, murals and open-air galleries.

Day Tour to Palenque of San Basilio

The town of Palenque is a two-hour ride up a mountain path where the traffic is intense.  Once you are there, you have arrived at the first free African town in all the Americas started in the 1600 by runaway slaves. Today, this UNESCO designated village of 3500 residents remains a cultural phenomenon where the descendants of enslaved Africans have been successful in preserving their ancestral traditions and language.  The tour is very interactive where they walk you through their history, music, customs and even teach you some of their language. It has no police force instead, they use a community citizen board to address crime. It is apparent as you walk around the village that this is a low-income community. Yet, you do not see homeless people or addicts like you may see in other cities.  There is no vandalism, just colorful homes and murals that depict pride and honor history.  It is truly a very immersive experience.

 The Towns of Santa Marta and Riohacha, La Guajira

 I met up with a friend to explore the northern tip of the Colombian coast known as La Guajira which is a combination of desert and coastline near the area known as Cabo de la Vela.   We never made it there, as it became too demanding and isolating to reach. We detoured from Santa Marta to Riohacha to meet up with the native tribe of Wayuu. This, however, is another story, click here to read “Echoes from La Guajira and the Wayuu Tribe of Colombia.“

The Caminata

 On weekends, there may be a good chance to experience a Caminata within the historic center. A Caminata is a traditional wedding parade which has its roots in the city’s Afro-Caribbean culture led by mostly young black women beautifully dressed in white along with “tamboreros”, men also dressed in white playing drums. The wedding couple is surrounded by the dancers, dancing and walking down the city streets with the party guests following as the parade heads to the reception.  Both locals and tourists join in the fun. (Similar type of parade is also popular in Oaxaca, Mexico known as Calendas).  I witnessed and took part in several of which one included a gay male couple.  Cartagena is also a popular wedding destination site.

Interestingly, there is some push back on whether this reinforces racism, a reminder of customs carried out during the time of slavery. It important to note that Cartagena has a very large Afro Colombian population compared to other Colombian cities and racism and classism in this country are just as pervasive as in the US.

Final Note

 Cartagena is definitely a bucket list trip, especially if you like the beach. For me, it was both a great cultural experience and an opportunity for me to rest and rewire for the coming year.  I plan to go to Bogota for a week and from there head to Quito, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands.

 I very much enjoy photographing this charming city and thus my photos are a compilation of what this city looks like, its people, Caminata tradition and candid moments of daily living.  The photos reflect the narrative. As always, remember to click the center of the photo to see a full view of each photograph.

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