Cappadocia: A Journey Through the Land of Fairy Chimneys and Mystical Caves
Cappadocia is a region in Central Turkey known for its geographical landscape caused by millions of year of volcanic eruptions. These surreal rock formations are known as fairy chimneys and mushrooms, but honestly, they also look like something folks are too polite to name. The cities in this region were built from cave dwellings. In fact, the area is known for its mystical caves used as dwellings, its landscape, cuisine, textiles and ceramic plates but especially the hot-air balloon rides. I stayed in a cave in the city of Goreme, the tourist center of the province of Nevsehir. This once rural and impoverished region is very much now a tourist city. Here’s what I learned and enjoyed about this unique region of Turkey ending my three weeks in this country….
First a Bit of History
Cappadocia can be traced to ancient times as far back as the 3rd century BCE. But before that, millions of years ago, volcanic eruptions from nearby volcanoes produced layers of ash, lava, and volcanic rocks. Over time, these volcanic eruptions formed a soft, porous geological formation known as fairy chimneys. This soft rock also made it easy for early inhabitants to carve out homes, churches, and entire underground cities. Interestingly, religion played a significant role in the formation of these dwellings becoming a refuge for Christians who were persecuted by the Romans and the Arabs by hiding in these caves. Today, it is primarily a Muslim country with the morning Ezan prayer to start the day.
In the modern era, these caves became a way of life for what was a poor rural region. By the mid 20s, the government turned the area into a historic site, building new homes in a nearby location to remove residents from the caves. These ancient cities are now part of a tourist area of hotels and businesses providing much needed jobs, business opportunities and a better quality of life to its long-time residents. Probably one of the most successful displacement initiatives where residents benefited.
Arriving in Cappadocia, Turkey
After two weeks in Istanbul (Click here for story and photos), I arranged to stay in Cappadocia for a week, wanting very much to experience a hot-air balloon ride its famously known for. I wasn’t expecting to stay in a cave but was just as delighted with the opportunity. To get to Cappadocia from Istanbul, you do need to fly, as it would take an entire day to get there by car or bus. Health-wise, my back pains were manageable, although I continue to feel worn out by the end of the day as the month of August is quite hot in Turkey. Once I arrived in Cappadocia, the hotel manager was a super host, helping me plan a week of activities and getting me acquainted with the area. This was another week that challenged my ability to focus on projects, besides sightseeing. Not much was done with having to immediately plan where I was going to sleep in a week. Next stops—a trip to Egypt and later Cape Town.
What I Did and Liked About Cappadocia
I fell in love with the area, finding it to be one of the most enchanting destinations I have been to, with its captivating landscapes, historical cave dwellings, and its rich cultural heritage. The entire region is dotted with these fairy chimney rock formations that are just extraordinary and mystical. The landscape reminded me of the planets in the Star Wars movie franchise.
I highly recommend that if you go to Istanbul or any place near Turkey, spend at least 4 days in Goreme, stay in a cave and take a hot-air balloon ride. These traditional cave structures come with modern amenities. I’ve included photos of the unit I stayed in. August was a bit hot and because you are in a mountainous area get ready to do a bit of climbing. However, the evenings are much cooler and the place really comes alive for dining and drinking. Below is a list of the activities and tours I took and what that experience was like.
Hot-Air Balloon — The first thing next day was to jump on a hot-air balloon. I loved it so much that I did it twice. This experience and photos are part of another story. However, most days you can get up by 6 am, grab a cup of coffee and head to the terraces or rooftops of the hotels to see many balloons drift very close into the city. Great for those who fear heights.
The Green and Red Tours—Both tours offer a good deal of history and cultural experiences. The Red tour takes you to several of the historic sites to experience the caves. The Green tour takes you to the only remaining underground city that you can walk through, including visiting a site that was used as an inn and trading post. Both tours provide authentic Turkish meals, among other cultural experiences.
Horseback Riding—I was debating whether to do this or the ATV bike. The horse was a better choice for going deeper into the archaeological site and to catch a sunset.
Whirling Dervishes—The way this is advertised, you get the impression that one is going to see a cultural dance show. Not exactly. It is basically a formal religious ceremony referred to as the Sema where men spin in a circle for short periods after the completion of a prayer song with drums. It is not for entertainment as it is more about a religious Islamic cultural practice that is over 750 years old. I would skip it if you are not into history or culture. This also can be seen in Istanbul.
Turkish Spa — One of the last things I did was to experience a Turkish spa and massage which I was unable to do in Istanbul. Frankly, I can’t say there was that much of a difference other than it being so much less expensive and relaxing.
Preservation and Tourism
Cappadocia is becoming a very popular destination site for tourism. Planes land every day with travelers from all over the world. The government and business community continue to invest in the area’s infrastructure. However, the region is gradually experiencing erosion as seen in my photos, where some of the fairy chimneys are eroding. There needs to be preservation efforts in place to protect the fragile environment and historical sites from overdevelopment and damage. Furthermore, sustainable tourism practices that balance both the environment with the interest of tourism can help maintain the cost of living from impacting residents to avoid what is happening in cities like Barcelona and Venice.
Lastly, My Photos
As always, my photos are about what makes Cappadocia a place you may want to visit. It’s worldly landscapes, unique geological features and the beauty and skill of its artistry tied to its rich history. I kept to a minimum photos on the hot-air balloon flight for an upcoming story on the growth of this unique industry. Remember to click the center of the photo for a full view of each photograph. See you next in Egypt, Salam.
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