I spent 25 days in Quito, Ecuador, known as the first UNESCO world culture heritage site. It is 9,350 feet above sea level (at times, feeling a bit breathless). Quito is nestled deep into a valley surrounded by Andean mountains and volcanoes. One of the most bio-diversity regions in the world. Its historic center was built on what was once part of the Inca civilization with some of the most well-preserved colonial architecture in all South America, steeped in old traditions. It is also a very large and densely populated modern city. Three weeks in Quito and five days in the Galapagos Islands made for an unforgettable experience in this part of the world. The following is what I manage to do in Quito, known as “La Mitad del Mundo” (middle of the world) where the equator meets Ecuador…

But First a Bit of History

Before the Spanish conquest, the indigenous population of Quito was part of the Inca Empire. Their resistance resulted in numerous rebellions before ultimately being defeated during the 15th century. As Quito developed into a Spanish colony, it faced various challenges, including multiple earthquakes and economic instability, which eventually led to several revolts. Supported by Simon Boliver, the city and the surrounding region gained their independence from Spain by the mid-18th century. Once Ecuador was fully independent as a country, the city of Quito became its capital. Today, Quito has a population of over 2.2 million and is the second highest elevated city in the world.

The economy of Ecuador is the eighth largest among all Latin America and ranks 69 in the world. Its major industries are agricultural, mining, and oil along with new technologies.   Interestingly, in 2000 it adopted the US dollar as its official currency to strengthen a weaken economy.  This led to the removal of the president, although the dollar remains as its currency.

Arriving in Quito

 I left the city of Bogota to arrive at Quito experiencing the same problem with breathing due to a higher increase of the city’s altitude (by 2000 ft). During the three weeks that I stayed in Quito, I found myself, at times, waking up in the middle of the night or early morning, breathing harder than usual. I continued to use Coca tea leaves to help me relax and adjust to the altitude.

I stayed in two different apartments, both close to the colonial center with a five-day break between them to go to the Galapagos Islands.   The weather was much like an early spring, requiring a jacket that you can peel off when sunny.   Most days it would rain for an hour, once or twice a day. In fact, most of the time it was cloudy or partly cloudy with sunny days.  The city is surrounded by volcanos, some of which are active. The trappings of volcanic ashes in the clouds contributed to my ultimately having a sore throat. I was glad that I booked a 5-day cruise to the Galapagos Islands which gave me a break from both the volcanic ashes and the altitude.   The entire cruise trip was an amazing experience and made my entire month in Ecuador extraordinary. Click here, to read  “Navigating Nature’s Masterpiece: A Galápagos Cruise Experience” 

My Ecuadorian Immersion

I found Quito to be a combination of both a modern and old city. Its colonial center is considered one of the most well preserved in all South America, even though it has experienced many earthquakes.  My only concern was the lack of maintenance, as I found part of the colonial center and its neighborhoods needing some serious attention. . It’s important to note that the city of Quito has a significant number of the under and unemployed (30%) with a higher poverty rate among indigenous people and Afro-descendants.  Quito is unlike other city’s colonial centers that attract middle-income residents and tourists, creating a more mixed income community.

I stayed in a neighborhood less than 10 minutes from the main colonial center. Most days I would walk the colonial center streets and its pedestrian walkways admiring its baroque architecture, museums and way of life. As can be expected, there are many street vendors, some dressed in traditional clothing peddling all kinds of household items, foodies and agricultural products. Here you can get 4 avocados or a dozen eggs for a dollar. Food is fairly inexpensive, whether you are in a grocery store or restaurant. There are also fewer tourists with residency here than in other places, such as Colombia and Mexico.

 In many ways, Quito reminded me of Bogota, from its Andean mountains and slopes to its historic architecture and their rapid rise in becoming a modern city. Much like Bogota’s colonial center, there are a significant number of street vendors with temporary stalls and carts selling on the streets. There are also many performers and beggars that become part of the city’s cultural landscape.  I found their Spanish dialect a bit difficult at times to understand, asking them to repeat what they said or further explain it to me. During late hours, I would always take an Uber back to my apartment. Ubers here are illegal, but there is no way the taxi companies can keep them out. Many times, the Uber driver would ask you if you could sit in the front seat to possibly avoided being stopped by a transit police. In fact, some of my best conversations about Quito were with Uber drivers.

What I loved and did in Quito

Staying for three weeks allowed me to both enjoy the city and explore its surroundings.  I also was there for carnival week where you can see how the city prepares for this holiday week. To learn what that experience was like, click here to read. “Faces of “Carnaval”: A Visual Story from the Heart of Ecuador”

The following is a summary of the places I visited and what I liked about them:

Museums—  There are at least a dozen large and small museums in Quito. I went to several small ones with a focus on folk art and history, in addition to the following:

Casa del Alabado—  A beautiful colonial house with a very impressive collection of over 500 Pre-Columbian archaeological pieces, on display. Quite impressive!

Oswaldo Guayasamín House Museum– This place actually blew me away. This museum has two parts, the first is the artist’s home. A legendary painter who also was an avid collector of pre-Columbian art, religious art, colonial furnishings and so much more. I have never seen so many crosses and virgen statues in one place. The second part is a newly designed museum with a significant collection of the artist’s works, profoundly stunning.   Definitely worth a visit.

The City Museum (Museo de la Ciudad) –This museum building is a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site.  The museum, a former hospital, chronicles the history of Quito, along with 400 years of the hospital. The museum focuses on both history and cultural aspects of life in Quito. I found it to be very educational and worthy of a visit.

 The Contemporary Art Center is an architectural complex and also a former hospital with multiple venues that support both the performing and visual arts, including a library and an outdoor atrium. The exhibitions were of contemporary artists from South America. It is free and quite wonderful.

Hop On and Hop Off Bus Tour— I find these tour buses essential when traveling. They offer you a good overview of the entire city that includes both the colonial and modern sections of the city. I stopped at the Basílica del Voto Nacional which I would skip (all these cathedrals look the same). I also stopped to see the Virgen de el Panecillo on top of the hill where the views of the city are quite impressive, as is the closeup of the statue that watches over the entire city.

 Otalvo Tour to visit the Cayambe Indigenous Market —  This was the only tour I took that was outside of Quito and it did not disappoint.  It took an hour to get to this town, well worth it.

Mitad del Mundo— I fully enjoyed going to the middle of the world where the equator meets Ecuador.  The place is quite delightful with small museums, shops and restaurants besides entertainment.  It’s almost unforgivable to not go to the middle of the earth if you are in Ecuador.  The actual monument is 20 meters from the middle of the earth. If you visit, make sure you go to the museum where the correct geo location is.  I was unsuccessful in standing an egg on a nail as one of their many experiments.

 Final Note and Photos

Spending a month in Ecuador between Quito and the Galapagos Islands offered me many unforgettable moments and the opportunity to learn so much about a country I knew nothing about.   Currently, there are certain sectors of the population worried about the upcoming Presidential elections and whether their lives will change drastically (sound familiar?).  This is still a country that is experiencing some level of violence and the intrusion of cartels from Colombia.  Only time will tell if it can overcome the many obstacles impeding its economic growth.

My photos reflect my long walks of the city, exploring its people, their daily living, culture and architecture. I included photos from the Cayambe and the Mitad del Mundo and many of the city’s historic sites. As always, remember to click the center of the photos to view the entire photograph.  My next stop will be Costa Rica.

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